Saturday, August 13, 2022

Mountain Time

On a bike trip several years ago, Gail and I rode to the Adirondacks and climbed Algonquin Peak.  It was my first Adirondack 46er- the 46 peaks over 4000'.  Except some of them aren't over 4000', and there are some peaks over 4000' not on the list.  I didn't (and still don't) have any intention of trying to be a 46er, but at some point I decided to make an effort for a different arbitrary, inaccurate group: The highest 25 in the Northeast.  On this four-day solo trip I planned to hike a good part of the Great Range and make it to Basin and Gothics (on the list), plus a bunch of other peaks that are and aren't on it.  If all went well, I'd revisit Algonquin (and Wright) on a route that would go to their neighbor, Iroquois.  All went well.  That's me (duh), having just been to Iroquois.


 From Algonquin looking at the part of the Great Range I hiked a couple days before.  Basin is on the right, Gothics is most of the middle section of the range.

Thanks to Ann and Chips for letting me stay at their home in Piseco on the way up.  After having dinner and catching up, I got up at 3:30 am to drive the last 90 minutes to be sure I got a parking spot in the small Garden Parking Lot off Rt. 73 in Keene Valley.

Mountain Time

 

The Adirondacks are known for poor signage and trails that are little more than creeks with disks nailed to trees along the way.  But right away I found a clear sign that directed me to the South Side Trail I desired.  


I knew the route didn't get a lot of use, and that it had to cross Johns Brook right away, but it wasn't an obvious trail to the creek, or where it crossed.  But once on the other side it mostly followed an ATV track used to get to Johns Brook Lodge and the Interior Outpost.  There were some spots it completely disappeared and I found myself boulder-hopping in the creek which was thankfully quite low.


At the far end of the South Side Trail I came to this sign that explained why it was so hard to follow.  Hmmm- if only there had been one of these at the other end...

The climbing began and I soon had a look west across Johns Brook valley to Big Slide Mountain, a 46er, and Yard, one of those that is over 4000' but doesn't count.

Funny, it doesn't look that steep.

After going over Saddleback, a 46er that I hadn't given much attention to, I got to one that I've thought about often in the past few years: Basin.  It's right next to Haystack, with Marcy and Skylight just beyond.  A hike over the three of them would be a day well spent.

From Basin looking north to where I planned to spend the rest of the day: back over Saddleback, up the first part of Gothics, a side trip to Pyramid on the right, back to Gothics and along the ridge over Armstrong and Upper Wolfjaw.

There's this section of Saddleback that is described as tough if you're backpacking.  Why not just be honest and say it's tough?  Going down was the most unnerving thing I've done in the Adirondacks, maybe anywhere.  I was worried about getting back up it, but relieved that going down was much worse.

Some backpackers coming up behind me.  What do you mean you can't see them?  Zoom in, there are three of them in the picture.

The next spot that gets a lot of attention is a steep slab on Gothics with a cable used for assistance.  I got my first view of it a couple hours before getting there, that gave me lots of time to think about it and why I had read so much more about it than Saddleback.

I decided it's because of the uniqueness of the cable.  In dry conditions it really wasn't much of a benefit to have it going up.  I'll let you know if I ever descend on a wet day, or go either direction on an icy one.

From Pyramid (4560'- not a 46er): Looking back where I'd been in the morning.
From Armstong (4400'- a 46er):  Looking back where I'd spent the morning and some of the afternoon.  Upper Wolfjaw is just north of this.  By the time I reached it I was pretty beat and ready to descend so didn't linger as long as on the other peaks.  The descent seemed to go on forever and I had no inclination to add the other 46er I passed, Lower Wolfjaw.  It would have added a steep half-mile up and then back down.

At roughly five miles from Upper Wolfjaw I came to that intersection where I turned to the abandoned South Side Trail.  At 5:45 am, in partial darkness, alone, with a fair amount of anxiety about what I'd face in the day, I had stepped up the the sign on the right and the abandoned trail sign was already behind me.  Don't hike alone.

I'm calling it 16.5 miles and two more peaks on my list visited.







Mountain Time

Though the weather was predicted to be perfect on Thursday, and I wasn't too sore or drained from the long hike on Wednesday, I stuck with my plan to bike to some lower mountains and a swim at Heart Lake at Adirondack Loj.

After leaving the TMax-n-Topo Hostel in North Elba and riding about a half-mile to the Adirondack Loj Rd, my ambition for Friday was right in front of me, teasing in its clarity:  Hike over Mount Colden on the left, down into the gap to Lake Colden that separates it from the MacIntyre Range and up to Iroquois which is one of the bumps to the right of Algonquin, the highest peak of the range.  But that was slated for another day, maybe the next one, maybe on another trip in the future.

I biked to the Meadow Lane trailhead to Mount Van Hoevenberg.  NY spent a couple million dollars to build a new trail to the overlooks from the Winter Recreation Area.  Some people wish the money had been spread out over many trails in desperate need of improvements (I'd love it if just a little went to ladders on Saddleback), but this is a demonstration trail to show what they could be like, and it provides easy access to thousands of people to view the High Peaks without hiking something that would endanger them.

Really, people of almost all abilities should be given a chance to see these views.



The trail is incredible.  I'll be going back.

A bobsled frozen in time on the old track.
This really confused me when I saw it.  I couldn't figure out what kind of contraption they ride down the wooden platform on the side.  Then two guys walked down it as they serviced the new bobsled practice track.

This is in North Elba.  Did you know the 1980 and 1932 Olympics were not just held in Lake Placid?  The Saranac/Lake Placid/North Elba/Wilmington Olympics was just too long for a title.

I also went up Mt. Jo, which I'd climbed 26 years before.  It has a great view of Heart Lake and much of the High Peaks.  That's the MacIntyre Range closest, with Colden and Marcy to the left.
Some old trail building techniques are still visible on Mt. Jo.  Not exactly stairs, but some footing.

Mr. Joe and Mt. Jo.




Mountain Time

 During the night there was quite a bit of thunder coming from the High Peaks, and rain in North Elba.  Both continued as I paid for a parking permit at Adirondack Loj and I decided it would be foolish to summit any mountains, especially ones that would have me at or above treeline for several miles.


Sometimes you just have to bet against the forecast, and the current conditions.  As I was walking to the trail at Heart Lake that would take me around the MacIntyre Range on a low route, I realized the rain had stopped and there hadn't been any lightening for at least 15 minutes.  And the sky was getting brighter, more than it typically does at 6 am.  I figured if I was wrong, I would reverse my planned route, and if I was right, I had time to find out before the junction with the Lake Arnold Trail that goes up to Colden, and then continue over to Iroquois as I hoped.

I'm not saying it didn't rain anymore, but the umbrella I carried was never opened.  It did snag a few hundred wet branches.  At least there wasn't any thunder and lightening.  Lake Arnold had a moody look.
From the real summit of Colden.  When I got to the wooded area in the lower right of the picture, I  thought I was at the top and couldn't figure out what mountain was much higher and just to the south.  Right, the real summit of Colden.  The trail descends and climbs two more times in between.

After descending quite a bit on some slick slabs, Lake Colden became visible.  This was the only section of trail I had company on; another guy had bet against the forecast and we kept an eye on each other during this tricky stretch of trail.

The Algonquin Trail goes up there.

I'm not sure, but I think the creek that doubles as a trail is Algonquin Creek.

It was good to be climbing so steeply in a creek.  Though the rain didn't return anymore, it was humid and got pretty warm.  I dunked my head in the creek often, and if I had been sure no thunderstorms would form during the afternoon, I would have taken the time to enjoy a swim in this pool.

That's Wallface.  I still want to hike through there.

Looking back to where I'd just been: Boundary and Iroquois.  There's a claim that Boundary got it's name because it was the peak separating Iroquois and Algonquin territories, but that doesn't hold up to the evidence.


Looking down on Wright and Heart Lake.  I'd be on one and in the other in a matter of time.
Looking up the final ascent of Wright.  Only a few more cairns to go.

Mount Colden with Gray, Marcy and Skylight behind it.


 


 

Since I walked across the parking lot twice: once before changing my mind in the morning, and the second time to go swimming at the end, I'm calling it 16 miles.



Mountain Time

 All good trips come to an end, and I had to be back in Ithaca by 2 pm Saturday.  But I did want to keep climbing.

I was pretty sure if I got up by 3:30 (again), I could make it to the top of Ampersand on my way home.  I'd climbed it once in thick fog, but it's reputed to have one of the finest views in the Adirondacks, and I wanted to see it on a clear day.  I think this qualifies for seeing the sunrise.
Since I had the summit to myself for over an hour, I tried an old clothes-drying trick that works about half the time, and doubles as a sun-worshiping pose.
One last look from afar at Algonquin, and its neighbors.

Hard to tell through the clouds, but with binoculars it was clear that I was looking down on the Saranac Lakes.
Ampersand Lake backed by Seward, Seymour and Donaldson, each over 4000'.
I don't recall the story behind it, but the forest the trail passes between Middle Saranac Lake and Ampersand Mountain is old growth.  There are truly some great trees in an area that would have been easily accessed by lumbermen.  I hope they're still standing the next time I get there.


Thursday, August 11, 2022

Building Bridges

 I've been taking part in more trail projects with the Cayuga Trails Club lately.  We maintain the Finger Lakes Trail in the county and several spur trails to state parks, Cornell, and Finger Lakes Land Trust preserves.  The snowshoers are getting more finicky about trail conditions and don't like some of the bridge-less stream crossings, or existing bridges that are too narrow.  We added one to the Abbott Loop, and replaced two in the Potato Hill State Forest.




 

With the bridge done by lunch time, I decided to go up to the Pinnacles on the Abbott Loop and eat.  I should make an effort to get up there more often.

I'm sad to say I've been the Young Guy on the crew for the construction of all three bridges.  We've got to recruit some actual young people.  Now if we could get some of the trails straightened out a bit and off the steep hills so they are more skier friendly...


At least when I work alone in the wildflower preserve, I'm the youngest and oldest.  I got around to moving a short section of trail off a steep hill that is getting more use and as a result, more eroded.